Off-Grid Smart Locks: Solar, 12 V Power & Real-World Reliability
No Wi-Fi. No grid. Still secure.
🌞 Quick take: Most smart locks idle around 0.2–0.5 W. That’s 4.8–12 Wh/day, which a tiny 5–10 W panel covers easily—even on cloudy days—when paired with a small battery and charge controller.
1) System Overview (What You’re Building)
- Power: 12 V DC bus from a battery bank (or a dedicated small pack) with inline fuse.
- Conversion: If the lock expects 5 V (USB), add a buck converter (12 V→5 V).
- Access: Keypad / NFC / local Bluetooth—no cloud required.
- Resilience: Mechanical override + surge/EMP hygiene + weather sealing.
2) Power Budget (Know Your Numbers)
Estimate daily consumption:
- Standby draw: 0.3 W × 24 h ≈ 7.2 Wh/day
- Actuation overhead: ~2–3 W for ~1–2 s per unlock (negligible in total)
Battery sizing rule-of-thumb: Target 7–14 days autonomy without sun. For 7.2 Wh/day, that’s ~50–100 Wh usable capacity. (Example: a modest 12 V, 10 Ah LiFePO₄ ≈ 128 Wh usable.)
3) Solar Sizing (Tiny Panels, Big Stability)
- Panel: 5–10 W 12 V nominal.
- Controller: Small PWM is fine; MPPT if panel is shaded/variable.
- Cabling: Keep runs short; aim <3% voltage drop (AWG 18–16 usually ok).
Sunny Sites
5 W panel → ~20–30 Wh/day harvest → ample surplus for a 7–12 Wh/day lock.
Shaded/Forested
Use 10 W panel or increase autonomy (bigger battery). Consider MPPT and better orientation.
4) 12 V Wiring (Simple & Safe)
- Fuse: Inline 1 A (slow-blow) close to the battery or DC distribution block.
- Polarity: +12 V (red) → controller/buck → lock; Ground (black) common return.
- Serviceability: Add a quick-disconnect (XT30/DC barrel) at the door to remove the lock without rewiring.
- 5 V locks: Use a buck converter; set output to 5.1 V, verify under load.
5) Surge & EMP Hygiene (Because Remote ≠ Immune)
- Surge absorber: TVS diode or surge protector on the 12 V bus near the controller.
- Grounding: Follow your site’s grounding plan; avoid ground loops.
- Cable discipline: Twist positive/negative pairs to reduce induced spikes on long runs.
6) Weather Sealing & Condensation Control
- Gaskets: Use closed-cell foam or silicone gaskets behind exterior keypads.
- Penetrations: Route cables through glands; seal with neutral-cure silicone.
- Condensation: Desiccant packs inside cavities; consider a breathable membrane vent.
- Cold-weather: Lithium cells handle low temps better than alkaline; for extreme cold, power from the 12 V bus.
7) Fail-Safe Entry (When Power Isn’t There)
- Mechanical bypass: Retain a physical latch/lock cylinder hidden but reachable.
- External 5 V/12 V jack: Optional weather-sealed port to temporarily energize the system.
- Spare key plan: Store off-site or with a trusted neighbor; avoid obvious key safes.
8) Maintenance Cadence (Seasonal, Not Stressful)
- Quarterly: Inspect seals, check connectors, test actuation, verify solar/controller LEDs.
- Bi-annually: Tighten terminals, clean contacts, run a “low-voltage” test.
- Annually: Full system check: open/close cycles ×50, log any stalls or errors.
9) Quick Start Checklist
- [ ] Measure lock standby draw (multimeter inline)
- [ ] Size battery for 7–14 days autonomy
- [ ] Choose 5–10 W panel + small PWM controller
- [ ] Add 1 A inline fuse near source
- [ ] Weather-seal keypad & cable glands
- [ ] Add mechanical bypass + external service jack (optional)
- [ ] Document wiring with a photo inside the enclosure
📐 Need the math fast? Use our Energy Usage Calculator to estimate daily Wh and pick a battery/panel combo in minutes.
See RV 12 V Wiring Examples →
Tiny House Power Tips →